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Equipment for Phonescoping

Phonescoping combines some independent bits of technology into one internet enabled video camera with a massive zoom! With patience it can deliver amazing results. But it's a tricky art to master and if you're starting from scratch it can have a steep learning curve. This second installment of my guide to phonescoping describes what equipment you'll need to get started. Subsequent sections describe how to put all this kit into practice, shoot videos and then edit and share them.

 
Serious optics: the spotting scope

If you're phone scoping, you're going to be using a tiny pinhole camera on your phone. So you need some serious optics to zoom in close to your subject and funnel as much light as possible onto that miniature camera sensor. That's where your spotting scope comes in. If you're a reasonably serious birder you've probably already got one - and that's one of the real advantages of phonescoping - it simply re-purposes most of the kit you already own. Almost any scope will be functional, but a modern spotting scope with a decent eyepiece will do the best job. Older scopes tend to have small eyepieces that don't match well with a phone camera. Light gathering is the name of the game, so having a good sized objective lens will also help considerably. For many years I used a Swarovski ATX95 which did a good job. More recently I heard about the amazing scopes produced by Kowa. I was very close to buying one, when a chance conversation led me to become an ambassador for the company. My first experiences with Kowa kit I now have access to have blown me away, and you can read more about that in a blog post "Downsizing your phonescoping with a travel scope. What's the catch?".


A solid foundation - the tripod

Shooting video with a large zoom requires stability, so a tripod is essential. It's worth investing in a carbon fibre tripod to minimise flex in the legs and vibration of the phonescope - although in high winds you'll always struggle to get a steady shot. Choice of tripod head is also worth some thought. A purpose designed video head that smoothes out panning movements with a fluid damping mechanism is essential for anything other than a fixed shot. I use the Manfrotto MVH500AH. If you're in danger of becoming a phonescope junkie - I certainly am - you might just end up carrying your phonescope kit with you whenever you're out birding. Weight matters, and so does transporting your scope and tripod around. Many birders have less than favourable views of scopac type carriers - although I'm not sure how carrying your scope on your shoulder makes a geeky birder "cool". But for me, with a middle aged body ravaged by years of village cricket injuries, a scopac is essential. I can spend a whole day out birding with my scope on my back while barely noticing its there.

Your phone is your camera

In a phonescoping setup, your phone is of course also your camera. Phone camera technology is still advancing at pace, so upgrading invariably delivers a substantial increase in performance and it's worth working with an up to date phone if possible. Obviously the downside is the cost and the eWaste. Lots of companies reconditioned models, which is a great way to do things on a budge and with the environment in mind. Study the specs carefully before buying - phones often deliver different quality and resolutions at different frame rates. As you get into your phone scoping you'll want better and better slow motion performance. Samsung and Apple seem to constantly vie for the best cameras on the market, and the latest are certainly comparable to decent compact cameras. I haven't seen much difference between them, but personally prefer Apple's phones. As of 2024 I've upgraded to the iPhone15 Pro. Each combination of phone and scope will deliver different results (I'll say more about this below), and some combinations work better than others.

Relatively recent phones tend to feature more than one lens, usually including a basic telephoto (or at least not as wide) lens. My old iPhoneX had a x2 lens which worked well. My latest iPhone 15 has a x3 telephoto lens (as well as a "typical" x1 lens and a wide angle lens. Without using a telephoto lens, most phonescoping setups will result in vignetting - the appearance of a black circle around the image. Pinch zooming (effectively cropping the resulting image) just saps your image quality. With a telephoto lens there's no vignetting and I can shoot video with the scope on any zoom setting. A problem with this approach is that the telephoto lens on the very latest phones are getting bigger and bigger in their magnification. The iPhone16 is x5 which I suspect is possibly too much for optimum phonescoping.

A new possibility for tackling the vignetting problem is emerging. Kowa Optics have brought out wide angle eyepieces for some of their scopes. This allows you to use the standard x1 lens on your phone without getting any vignetting. The advantage of this is that the x1 lens is always higher spec than the telephoto lens so will give better results.

If you're using a phone with two cameras, standard operation will automatically combine images from both camara lenses. This means sometimes you see an image, and sometimes it goes ocmpletely black. You'll need to download a specialist camera app so that you can force to the phone to use only one of the camera lenses at a time (see below).

Bringing it all together - the phonescope adapter

Your adapter aligns the camera on your phone with the eyepiece of your spotting scope and holds everything in place. Consequently it's a make or break part of the phonescoping kit. It's easy to hold up your phone to your scope to take a quick snap, but for the best results, you have to use an adapter. For shooting video it's essential. There are a few different options to choose from. But remember that the particular combination of phone, adapter and scope will impact on the quality. Some combinations work significantly better than others.

 

Universal adapters feature adjusting jaws that can be setup to work with most phones and scopes. Their advantage is that when upgrading either your phone or scope, your adapter will probably still be usable with your new kit. Many universal adapters are pretty ropey. They can often be fiddly and somewhat impractical out in the field. My top recommendation is the Smartscope Vario Adapter. It's a really solid build and super quick and easy to use. With my current phonescoping setup I can even use the Vario adapter with my phone still in its case (not possible with the other adapters I've used). This is a major selling point for me as I broke my last phone after it popped out of my old VPA adapter and didn't survive the fall. The Smartscope Vario is not cheap, but you really get what you pay for with adapters, so it's worth investing.

There's an app for every PhoneScoping need

I use an iPhone and so this section primarily describes my experience with software that runs on Apple's iOS. Many apps are available on both iOS and Google Android, and there are always plenty of alternatives to try on your device if you can't find the exact software I've described here. I've added a few quick notes on Android options at the bottom.

It's well worth investing in some specialised apps to fulfill a number of important roles in your phonescoping setup. There are a variety of apps that give you more control of the camera settings, many are supported on different phones and a lot comes down to personal preference. A lot of these apps specialise in still photography, so some caution is advised - read up carefully before buying. There are also apps for eidting videos, and for processing the results.

 

I like the ProCamera app as it puts a lot of the key settings within very easy reach. In particular it's quick to change between each of the standard speed and slow motion settings. With the standard Apple Camera app, these options can only be found hidden away in Settings menus, making it easy to miss your shot while you're thumbing through to change your slowmo speed. FilmicPro is an excellent app that is unfortunately rendered worthless by a huge flaw in the way it deals with colour balance and is best avoided on the iPhone.

Note that if you have a camera with more than one lens, you will definitely need a proper camera app so that you force you use of just one camera at a time.​

Editing is one of the areas where phonescoping comes into it's own. Very simple and easy to use apps allow you to edit your footage on your phone and then share it on the internet almost instantly. As always there are plenty of options. Unfortunately almost all of them are quite buggy and tend to deal badly with slow motion footage. After posting a bug report to VLLO, they fixed issues with slowmo, and this is now my video editor of choice. The interface is really straightforward, and some elements of it are actually pretty elegant.

If you want to edit on an Android phone, it's worth trying out Quik. Thanks to @boywonderbirder for the recommendation.

What else? The extras

Phonescoping for any length of time will hit your battery hard, so a portable battery charger pack is essential. I have a band of velcro round the neck of my scope so I can attach my battery pack and hold it in place while filming.

A bluetooth remote can be useful in some situations - particularly if you do want to try still photography - clicking the remote to take a picture avoids the inevitable camera wobble when you press the record button on the screen. But if you're just shooting video, you can edit out imperfections at the end.

A dot sight can be incredibly helpful for phonescoping. It helps you line up on your target and is essential for phonescoping birds in flight. Check out this blog post on how to phonescope with a dot sight.

Ethical shopping

Thinking about what we buy and when is one of the most effective ways to influence the wider world. Whilst things like recycling get a lot of attention, it's actually our consumption that we need to regulate. Where a purchase is necessary it's worth thinking about the impact of our choices - something I've not always been mindful of, but which I'm trying to make a conscious effort to improve on. Phonescoping re-purposes your phone and scope as a camera, so you could argue it's not a bad start. Certainly better than purchasing a new camera. However, the temptation is of course to upgrade your kit before it's really necessary. Thinking about the ethical choices makes a lot of sense. As I mentioned above, try and buy a recondititioned phone rather than a brand new one.

Summary: top equipment tips for phonescoping
  1. A modern scope with a wide angle eyepiece is essential. But you don't need top end optics to get good results

  2. Don't scrimp on the tripod. Vibration from the wind is one of the phonescopers main enemies. A good tripod will help minimise this

  3. A phone with an optical zoom (of x2 or x3) works well for phonescoping by minimising vignetting and the resulting loss of resolution. Or go for an extra wide angle lens from Kowa.

  4. Phonescoping is about the combination of normally incompatible bits of kit. A good adapter is essential to bring them together. The Smartscope Vario is the best on the market.

  5. Specialist phone apps are well worth investing in, particularly camera/video apps and apps for editing. If you've got a dual camera phone, this is essential to force the use of the zoom camera lens. Procamera is my favourite.

  6. If your phone battery is dying, it's probably because you've been doing a lot of filming. An external battery pack will keep you running

I'll be returning to the application of these different bits of kit in the next section, which will focus on basic filming techniques.

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